Pilgrimage (Itinerarium Egeriae)

Contents

Reading pages: 1.1–9.7 · 10.1–19.19 · 20.1–26.1 · 27.1–39.5 · 40.1–49.3

1. 1.1Egeria's party comes in sight of Mount Sinai across a great valley.
2. 1.2At the first sight of the mountain the pilgrims pray.
3. 2.1The valley before Sinai is sixteen miles long.
4. 2.2This is the valley of Israel's camp, the golden calf and the burning bush.
5. 2.3The party plans to climb Sinai first and then descend to the bush.
6. 2.4They cross the head of the valley towards the mountain.
7. 2.5The mountain of God is a cluster of peaks.
8. 2.6The central peak far overtops the others.
9. 2.7The highest peak can be seen only from its foot or after descending.
10. 3.1Received by monks, the party climbs the steep mountains on Sunday.
11. 3.2Egeria reaches the summit of Sinai at the fourth hour.
12. 3.3A small church stands on the summit.
13. 3.4The presbyter of the summit church and the monks meet them.
14. 3.5Only the church and Moses's cave are on the summit.
15. 3.6After reading and the Eucharist, the monks give the pilgrims fruit from their gardens.
16. 3.7The monks show the cave where Moses received the second tablets.
17. 3.8From the summit Egeria sees Egypt, Palestine and the seas.
18. 4.1They descend to Horeb.
19. 4.2At Horeb they see Elijah's cave and altar.
20. 4.3They read the Elijah passage and celebrate the Eucharist at Horeb.
21. 4.4They visit the rock where Aaron and the seventy elders stood.
22. 4.5In the afternoon they set out for the head of the valley.
23. 4.6The burning bush still lives and puts out shoots.
24. 4.7The bush stands in a garden before a church.
25. 4.8At the bush they pray, read Exodus, stay the night and celebrate the Eucharist next morning.
26. 5.1They go down the valley as the monks point out the sites.
27. 5.2They had seen where Moses stood before the bush.
28. 5.3They see the site of Israel's camp and of the calf.
29. 5.4They see where Moses saw the dancing and broke the tablets.
30. 5.5They see the foundations of Israel's dwellings.
31. 5.6They see where the calf was burned and the stream.
32. 5.7They see sites of the seventy elders, the craving and Taberah.
33. 5.8They are shown where the manna and quails fell.
34. 5.9In this valley Israel kept the Passover and set up the tabernacle.
35. 5.10They see the Graves of Craving and visit the aged monks.
36. 5.11Having seen everything, they return to Pharan.
37. 5.12Egeria gives thanks to God and to the monks.
38. 6.1From Pharan they travel along the sea through the sandy desert.
39. 6.2The Pharanites find their way by markers and their camels.
40. 6.3They rejoin the Red Sea where Israel too had turned.
41. 6.4They return to Clysma and rest.
42. 7.1Egeria goes from Clysma to the land of Goshen to trace the Exodus route.
43. 7.2Soldiers escort them through the desert while clergy point out the sites.
44. 7.3Israel's route wandered back and forth.
45. 7.4They see Epauleum, Migdol and Baal-zephon.
46. 7.5They see Etham and Succoth.
47. 7.6They see Pithom, now a fort.
48. 7.7Heroöpolis, where Joseph met Jacob, is now a large village.
49. 7.8Hero lies sixteen miles from Goshen beside a branch of the Nile.
50. 7.9They reach the city of Arabia in Goshen.
51. 8.1Rameses is now an empty field of ruins.
52. 8.2Two carved statues are said to be Moses and Aaron.
53. 8.3An ancient sycamore said to be planted by the patriarchs heals the sick.
54. 8.4The bishop of Arabia, a learned former monk, tells them of the tree.
55. 8.5The bishop tells them that Pharaoh burned Rameses before pursuing Israel.
56. 9.1They arrive at Arabia on the eve of Epiphany.
57. 9.2The bishop was raised in a monastery.
58. 9.3They dismiss their military escort at the public road.
59. 9.4Goshen is a land of vineyards, gardens and farms along the Nile.
60. 9.5They reach Tanis, said to be Moses's birthplace.
61. 9.6Egeria returns by Tanis to Pelusium.
62. 9.7She returns to Jerusalem.
63. 10.1Egeria resolves to visit Mount Nebo.
64. 10.2God granted her wish.
65. 10.3They reach the Jordan crossing and the altar of the eastern tribes.
66. 10.4At Livias they see the plain where Israel mourned Moses.
67. 10.5Here Joshua was filled with the spirit.
68. 10.6Here Moses wrote Deuteronomy, sang his song and blessed the tribes.
69. 10.7Egeria describes the pilgrims' custom of prayer, reading and psalm at each site.
70. 10.8The presbyter of Livias offers to show them the water from the rock.
71. 10.9They turn aside to a little church and monks below a mountain near Nebo.
72. 11.1The monks welcome them and give them blessings.
73. 11.2The monks show the spring said to be Moses's water from the rock.
74. 11.3After the customary prayer and reading, monks go with them up Nebo.
75. 11.4They ride up most of Nebo and climb the last part on foot.
76. 12.1On Nebo's summit is a small church with a raised tomb-like place.
77. 12.2The monks say Moses was buried there by angels.
78. 12.3The guides invite them to view the biblical places from the summit.
79. 12.4From Nebo they see the Jordan's mouth, Livias and Jericho.
80. 12.5They see Palestine and the land of Sodom, with Zoar still standing.
81. 12.6They are shown the place of Lot's wife's pillar.
82. 12.7Egeria admits the pillar can no longer be seen.
83. 12.8They are shown Heshbon, Edrei and Peor.
84. 12.9Below lies the plain where Israel camped.
85. 12.10They see the mountain where Balaam was set to curse Israel.
86. 12.11They return to Jerusalem by Jericho.
87. 13.1Egeria decides to visit Job's tomb in Ausitis.
88. 13.2On the way to Carneas, the city of Job, she sees a beautiful valley by the Jordan.
89. 13.3At the village of Sedima a church stands on a mound.
90. 13.4Sedima is said to be Melchizedek's Salem, where he offered bread and wine.
91. 14.1At Melchizedek's church they keep the customary prayer, reading and psalm.
92. 14.2The presbyter shows the foundations of Melchizedek's palace.
93. 14.3The road is where Melchizedek met Abraham.
94. 15.1The presbyter offers to show them Aenon near Salim.
95. 15.2They see the spring and pool where John baptized.
96. 15.3The garden is called Saint John's garden.
97. 15.4They pray and read at the spring.
98. 15.5At Pascha the candidates are baptized in the spring and led in procession to the church.
99. 15.6With gifts of fruit they continue their journey.
100. 16.1They see Thisbe, Elijah's city, with his cave and Jephthah's tomb.
101. 16.2They see a monk's monastery in a valley by a stream.
102. 16.3This is the brook where ravens fed Elijah.
103. 16.4They see a great mountain; the text breaks off here.
104. 16.5A hermit, by revelation, told the bishop of Carneas where to dig.
105. 16.6They found Job's tomb in a cave and built a church over it.
106. 16.7After the Eucharist at Job's church they return to Jerusalem.
107. 17.1After three years in Jerusalem Egeria sets out for Edessa and Thomas's shrine.
108. 17.2Every pilgrim to Jerusalem also goes to Edessa.
109. 17.3She goes to Mesopotamia from Antioch on her way home.
110. 18.1Egeria travels from Antioch to Hierapolis.
111. 18.2She reaches the great river Euphrates.
112. 18.3She crosses the Euphrates into Mesopotamia.
113. 19.1She comes to Batnae, a city with a holy bishop.
114. 19.2At Edessa they pray at Thomas's shrine and read some of his writings.
115. 19.3Edessa's church is great and new; she stays three days.
116. 19.4She sees many shrines and monks.
117. 19.5The bishop of Edessa offers to show her the sights.
118. 19.6The bishop shows her statues of Abgar and his son.
119. 19.7The palace has pools of fish that supply the city's water.
120. 19.8The bishop tells how the Persians besieged Edessa.
121. 19.9Abgar prayed with the letter and darkness confounded the Persians.
122. 19.10The Persians could not find a way into the city.
123. 19.11The Persians diverted the city's water.
124. 19.12Springs burst out in the city while the diverted water dried up.
125. 19.13The letter read at the gate has always repelled enemies.
126. 19.14The springs rose in a field below Abgar's palace.
127. 19.15Abgar built a palace for Magnus enclosing the springs.
128. 19.16At the gate the bishop reads the letters and prays.
129. 19.17No unclean person or corpse may pass through that gate.
130. 19.18She sees Abgar's family tomb and old palace.
131. 19.19Egeria receives copies of the letters to bring home.
132. 20.1She goes on to Carrhae, the biblical Haran.
133. 20.2At Haran the bishop shows her the places.
134. 20.3They pray at the church on the site of Abraham's house.
135. 20.4They see Rebecca's well.
136. 20.5They arrive for the feast of the martyr Helpidius, when the monks gather.
137. 20.6She is able to see the famous hermits who come down only on this feast.
138. 20.7After the feast the hermits return at once to the desert.
139. 20.8Haran is pagan, and its people honour the tombs of Nahor and Bethuel.
140. 20.9Egeria asks the bishop when Nahor and Bethuel came to Haran.
141. 20.10The bishop explains that Nahor and Bethuel came to Haran later.
142. 20.11The bishop offers to show her Jacob's well.
143. 20.12Ur of the Chaldeans lies in Persian territory, out of reach.
144. 20.13The bishops and monks speak only of Scripture and the deeds of monks.
145. 21.1At Jacob's well, with its church, they pray and read Genesis.
146. 21.2They see the stone Jacob moved from the well.
147. 21.3She visits the monks around the well, who give her blessings.
148. 21.4At Fadana she sees Laban's tomb and where Rachel stole the idols.
149. 21.5She returns to Antioch.
150. 22.1From Antioch she travels to Tarsus in Cilicia.
151. 22.2She decides to visit the shrine of Thecla in Isauria.
152. 23.1She reaches Seleucia of Isauria.
153. 23.2She stays at Thecla's shrine, surrounded by monasteries.
154. 23.3She meets her friend the deaconess Marthana.
155. 23.4A wall protects the shrine from the Isaurians.
156. 23.5At the shrine she reads the Acts of Thecla.
157. 23.6She returns to Tarsus and goes on to the Taurus.
158. 23.7She crosses Asia Minor to Chalcedon and Euphemia's shrine.
159. 23.8She reaches Constantinople, giving thanks.
160. 23.9She gives thanks in the churches of Constantinople.
161. 23.10Egeria plans to go to Ephesus and asks her readers to remember her.
162. 24.1The daily night office begins before cockcrow at the Anastasis.
163. 24.2At dawn the bishop prays, blesses catechumens and faithful, and dismisses them.
164. 24.3The same is done at the sixth and ninth hours.
165. 24.4At the tenth hour comes the lamp-lighting office.
166. 24.5A deacon names individuals and boys answer “Kyrie eleison”.
167. 24.6The bishop blesses catechumens and faithful separately.
168. 24.7The evening office continues with processions to the Cross.
169. 24.8On Sunday the people gather before cockcrow for vigil.
170. 24.9At cockcrow the Anastasis is opened and three psalms are said.
171. 24.10The bishop reads the gospel of the resurrection amid the people's tears.
172. 24.11They process to the Cross for the dismissal.
173. 24.12The monks continue psalmody until dawn.
174. 25.1On Sunday the presbyters and bishop preach in Constantine's great church.
175. 25.2Only the faithful follow the bishop into the Anastasis.
176. 25.3The bishop gives thanks and blesses the faithful in the Anastasis.
177. 25.4This is the custom of the whole year except on feasts.
178. 25.5The psalms and antiphons always suit the occasion.
179. 25.6A leaf is lost; the text resumes with the Epiphany procession from Bethlehem.
180. 25.7At dawn they enter the Anastasis, then rest.
181. 25.8On the feast the churches are adorned with gold, gems and silk.
182. 25.9Constantine adorned the buildings with gold, mosaic and marble.
183. 25.10On the first day of the feast the service is in the major church.
184. 25.11The feast lasts eight days, with stations at the holy places.
185. 25.12Bethlehem keeps the same eight-day feast.
186. 26.1The fortieth day after Epiphany celebrates the Presentation in the temple.
187. 27.1Jerusalem keeps eight weeks of Lent, forty-one fast days.
188. 27.2Lenten Sundays follow the usual Sunday order.
189. 27.3The Sunday morning and evening services in Lent.
190. 27.4On weekdays in Lent a service at the third hour is added.
191. 27.5On Wednesdays and Fridays there is a station at Sion at the ninth hour.
192. 27.6At Sion there is preaching but no Eucharist; then the evening office.
193. 27.7On Fridays an all-night vigil leads to an early Saturday Eucharist.
194. 27.8The vigil ends with the Eucharist at sunrise.
195. 27.9The early Saturday Eucharist lets those who fast all week break their fast.
196. 28.1Some eat only on Sunday and Saturday through Lent.
197. 28.2Their meals in Lent are on Saturday morning and Sunday.
198. 28.3The renunciants fast according to their strength.
199. 28.4No one is pressed to fast beyond his strength; their Lenten food is water and gruel.
200. 29.1Each of the six weeks follows the pattern of the first.
201. 29.2In the seventh week the Friday vigil is held on Sion.
202. 29.3On the Saturday before Palm Sunday all go to Bethany.
203. 29.4At the church where Mary met Jesus they read the gospel.
204. 29.5At Bethany Pascha is announced with John 12:1.
205. 29.6The reckoning of the six days explains the date.
206. 30.1Holy Week begins with the service in the Martyrium.
207. 30.2The archdeacon announces the week's services.
208. 30.3After eating, all go to the Eleona on the Mount of Olives.
209. 31.1At the ninth hour they go up to the Imbomon, the place of the ascension.
210. 31.2With palms the people escort the bishop down the Mount of Olives.
211. 31.3Children with palm and olive branches escort the bishop as the Lord was escorted.
212. 31.4The procession reaches the Anastasis late for the lamp-lighting.
213. 32.1On Monday of Holy Week the people gather at the Martyrium from the ninth hour.
214. 32.2The day ends with blessings at the Anastasis.
215. 33.1On Tuesday they go by night to the Eleona.
216. 33.2In the cave the bishop reads Christ's discourse on the end.
217. 34.1On Wednesday the betrayal by Judas is read amid the people's tears.
218. 35.1On Thursday the Eucharist is celebrated early at the Martyrium.
219. 35.2Only on Holy Thursday is the Eucharist offered behind the Cross.
220. 35.3At the Eleona the Last Supper discourse is read.
221. 35.4At midnight they go up to the Imbomon.
222. 36.1At cockcrow they pray at the place of the agony.
223. 36.2By candlelight the whole people go down to Gethsemane.
224. 36.3At Gethsemane the arrest is read; at dawn they process to the Cross.
225. 36.4Before the Cross the trial before Pilate is read.
226. 36.5The bishop encourages the weary people and announces the veneration of the cross.
227. 37.1On Good Friday the wood of the cross is brought out before the bishop.
228. 37.2The people kiss the wood of the cross under the deacons' guard.
229. 37.3They also venerate the ring of Solomon and the anointing horn.
230. 37.4At the sixth hour all gather in the courtyard before the Cross.
231. 37.5From the sixth to the ninth hour passages on the passion are read.
232. 37.6The readings show prophecy fulfilled in the passion.
233. 37.7The people weep; at the ninth hour John's account of Christ's death is read.
234. 37.8The burial of Christ is read at the Anastasis.
235. 37.9Many keep vigil at the tomb through the night.
236. 38.1At the Paschal vigil the newly baptized are first led to the Anastasis.
237. 38.2The Paschal Eucharist is celebrated at the Martyrium and again at the Anastasis.
238. 39.1The eight days of Pascha are kept like Epiphany.
239. 39.2The stations of Easter week.
240. 39.3Each afternoon the newly baptized go up to the Eleona and Imbomon.
241. 39.4On Easter Sunday evening they process to Sion.
242. 39.5At Sion they read of Christ's appearing to the disciples and Thomas's doubt.
243. 40.1On the octave they go to the Eleona and Imbomon, then the Anastasis.
244. 40.2At Sion they read of Thomas's encounter with the risen Lord.
245. 41.1No one fasts from Pascha to Pentecost.
246. 42.1The fortieth day after Pascha is kept with a vigil at Bethlehem.
247. 43.1Pentecost begins with the usual Sunday vigil.
248. 43.2After an early Eucharist the people go to Sion by the third hour.
249. 43.3On Sion they read of the coming of the Spirit.
250. 43.4In the afternoon the whole city climbs the Mount of Olives.
251. 43.5At the Imbomon the accounts of the ascension are read.
252. 43.6They hold the lamp-lighting at the Eleona and descend to the Martyrium.
253. 43.7By candlelight they return to the Martyrium and then the Anastasis.
254. 43.8From the Anastasis and Cross they go again to Sion.
255. 43.9Pentecost ends at midnight on Sion after a day of labour.
256. 44.1After Pentecost the usual fasts and daily vigils resume.
257. 44.2On Sundays the resurrection gospel is read at cockcrow.
258. 44.3The daily pattern continues through the year.
259. 45.1Candidates for baptism give their names before Lent.
260. 45.2The candidates are presented one by one to the bishop.
261. 45.3The bishop questions the candidates' neighbours about their life.
262. 45.4The unworthy are sent away to amend; strangers need witnesses.
263. 46.1The candidates are exorcized daily and then taught by the bishop.
264. 46.2The bishop expounds all Scripture, literally and spiritually, during Lent.
265. 46.3After five weeks the candidates receive the creed and its explanation.
266. 46.4Catechesis lasts seven weeks; in Holy Week there is no time for it.
267. 46.5In Holy Week each candidate recites the creed to the bishop.
268. 46.6The bishop promises to explain the mysteries of baptism after Pascha.
269. 47.1In Easter week the bishop explains the rites of baptism.
270. 47.2Only the baptized hear the explanation of the mysteries.
271. 47.3A presbyter translates the bishop's Greek into Syriac.
272. 47.4Readings are interpreted into Syriac, and bilingual helpers explain in Latin.
273. 47.5Everything said suits the day and the place.
274. 48.1The Encaenia celebrate the dedication of the churches and the finding of the cross.
275. 48.2The feast coincides with Solomon's dedication of the temple.
276. 49.1Crowds come from every province for the Encaenia.
277. 49.2Forty or fifty bishops attend.
278. 49.3The stations of the Encaenia; the manuscript breaks off.